Stock Moto Kart Package

•January 6, 2017 • Leave a Comment

2010 Spirit SP32 – Honda CR125 Shifter Kart Package – Price Reduced

$4500 for full package; Kart, Spares, Trailer

$4000 for Kart w/ Spares (+$100 if I include the Extended Front Porch kit for tall drivers)

Austin, Texas

This is a very well maintained, never crashed, Stock Honda 125 Shifter Kart with stand, spares, and a collapsible trailer. This kart is absolutely beautiful, and comes fitted with a Tillett T8 seat (Medium-Small). The kart has participated in one season of WSK before being sold by 3G kart racing in Katy, Texas. The new owner participated in a single season of regional racing in Texas, and then a few local races. I purchased the kart from him, and ran three practice days at Hill Country Kart Club, with the intention of racing a full season before life came at me quick and ruined my plans.

Excellent setup for local club races (you are not likely to be limited by the performance of the kart at the local level), and good setup for regional racing (where you might be limited against competition running brand new gear).  I also have an ‘Extended Front Porch’ kit that I will include for an additional $100 if you need it (taller driver).

Kart:

2010 Spirit (Birel) SP32 chassis in great shape, never crashed, with front and rear brakes; all components supplied by Freeline. The 32mm chassis was designed with input from karting World Champ Gianluca Beggio, constructed by Birel, and is a close match to the Birel 32mm chassis from the same year. Setup/tuning will be similar, and components are shared. Douglas Magnesium wheels.

Honda CR125 built to SKUSA Stock Moto specs by SRS engines. Fuel delivery is provided by SRS’ Hybrid Float Pump Around system, and it is fed to a Keihin PWM carb. This is a serious engine. I made a few improvements after purchasing this kart, and mounted the pumps to a Shark Shifter bracket on the engine instead of the back of the seat. The pulse line from the crankcase to the pump is a considerably shorter, as are the fuel supply and return lines, and I believe this made a slight improvement on the throttle response. Additionally, the ignition electronics have been mounted to the gearbox using a nice SwedeTech CDI mount. The exhaust is an RLV R4 pipe with the M4 silencer. Silencer comes with adjustable tuning inserts. Cooling is provided by a custom radiator sourced by 3G, and comes with a nice aluminum honeycomb screen to keep fins safe from gravel. There is ample cooling for hot Texas weather!

Mychron 4 2T, monitoring EGT, H2O temp, and RPM. Comes with optical beacon sensor installed, and a magnetic track pickup is also included in the spares.

Spares & Tools:

1 Extra front set of Douglas Magnesium wheels with Used MG Yellows

1 Extra Left Rear Douglas Magnesium wheel with MG Yellow (right rear was damaged as a result of a broken wheel stud, the mount hole has been ‘ovalled’ to the point of being unusable, but will be included with the kit anyway).

3 Used Sets of MG Yellows, Front and Rear, wrapped and boxed. Good practice tires.

Freeline Rear Brake Caliper (C-1 28-H15 BL) with new ‘banana’ pads, blue anodized

Freeline Rear Brake Cylinder (COD 10.6362.00   01-05), gold anodized

Freeline Master Cylinder (151-152/FR/06 –X), gold anodized

(2X) Freeline 50mm Bearing Cassettes with used 50mm bearings, blue anodized

Freeline 50mm Sprocket Hub (not for a gearbox kart, but included anyway), gold anodized

Freeline Vented/Drilled Rear Brake Rotor w/ 50mm hub

Freeline Pedals (brake/throttle) with springs and bolts, blue anodized

Freeline Steering Shaft

Freeline Steering Wheel Hub, gold anodized

AMC Motor Mount

50mm Freeline rear axle

Freeline nerf bars (sides, L/R)

Birel ‘Motorsport’ Steering Wheel, red blue silver, functional but not terribly beautiful.

Freeline Seat Pads

-Hose kit with new carb vent hose kit, radiator hose, and numerous lengths of used fuel/pulse line.

Assorted brackets, including seat mount struts and various tie rods

-Engine kit with new NGK plug wire, a few gaskets, used cylinder head gasket, used piston, ring set, reeds, fuel pump rebuild kits, exhaust manifold gasket and O-rings, silencer tuning inserts, CDI rubber isolator mount, carb jet kit.

-Brake kit with pads and shims, Freeline circlips, O-rings, pistons, springs, caliper bracket (for the spare rear)

-Chain kit with gear set (need to check tooth count) and lots of used 458 chain, links (not bad to have on hand in a pinch)

-Hardware Kit with lots of bolts, nuts, washers, grommets, springs, clips, spacers, isolators, clevis, end links, clamps, valve stems, bead lock screws/O-rings.

Complete Honda Service manuals for the engine and gearbox.

4’X8’ Foldable trailer outfitted with full deck, and eye hooks for mounting/strapping the kart. I also have two wood blocks used to elevate the rear of the kart above the trailer fenders.

Freeline front axle tool

Bead Breaker

Brake Bleed Bottle

Piston Stop

Chain Breaker

Kart Stand (not terribly portable, needs new rubber on the wheels will hold air for a few days)

I’ll also throw in a large Husky job box to hold it all, and a cute little collapsible dolly to roll around the paddock carrying assorted things with. Like tires mostly.

I am sure there are a few things I am missing from the list. If any clarification is needed, please contact me. Local pick-up only, cash only. More photos available upon request.

Dale Daugherty

daledaughertymotorsports@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Painted Mirrors/ Spoiler

•March 16, 2016 • Leave a Comment

The factory side mirrors and rear spoiler on the Miata were getting a little weathered, and showing signs of missing clearcoat, so I painted the matte black. I considered Plastidip, but this was never meant to be a temporary fix, so paint it is. I like the mirrors, but I am not totally sold on the black spoiler, so it might get changed back to Sunlight Silver when I finally get around to color-matching my hard top.

The good news is that the paint actually came out looking pretty nice, if I do say so myself:

Fraction to Decimal Ruler – Inch

•August 2, 2015 • Comments Off on Fraction to Decimal Ruler – Inch

I’ve been spending some time designing some furniture, and I created a handy fraction to decimal conversion chart in ruler format. It is divided down to 1/64″, and the decimal precision varies depending on the division. By doing this, nothing is rounded. The format also highlights more often used divisions of 1/16″. Feel free to download a copy:

Fraction to Decimal – Inch

Brief Update

•March 27, 2015 • Leave a Comment

You have not heard much from me lately, because I have too much going on!

Formula One is back! My life makes sense.

Work continues on the Miata; the AC now works again, just in time for spring summer in Austin.

I recently rebuilt the rear end on the shifter kart, and came across a cracked axle bearing! Yikes! Glad I noticed before it caused a major (safety) issue.

bearing_split

More Miata updates

•December 3, 2014 • Leave a Comment

So, over the last few months I have completed the following work on the Miata:

-Added a Hardtop
-Installed KYB adjustables
-Replaced interior dash lights (gauges and HVAC panel)
-Rebuilt/painted OEM calipers
-Installed stainless braided lines
-Repaired an emergency brake cable that Jiffy Lube broke during state mandated inspection
-Painted OEM 15″ wheels to look similar to old-school American Racing magnesium rims (w/polished lip)
-New tires
-Alignment
-Replaced broken D/S taillight
-Modified rear sidemarkers to illuminate
-Opened headlights and painted chrome housings flat black
-Had Mazda replace the PCM per recall with a re-programmed one to cure my CEL related to the known VVT issue.

Here are pretty pictures:

 

TLC

•October 19, 2014 • Leave a Comment

I have owned my ’01 Mazda Miata for about seven years now. She is now approaching 150’000 miles, so I figured it was time to take care of some things that have been causing me headaches lately.

First up? A recurring CEL that has been making it a real PITA to get inspected. The issue is related to the VVT system found on the ’01+ 1.8L engine, which causes the  Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to signal a P0012 “CMP Timing Over-Retarded” error. I have actually been dealing with this for a few years. It got to the point where it was predictable. Any time I drove at low speed and low RPM it would come on.  I had some luck with the “go-to” fix of running a lighter weight oil for a while, but unfortunately this last year it has become a persistent issue. I noticed that Mazda issued a TSB for this very issue, and it required a dealership to replace the PCM with a reprogrammed one. So, I stopped by the dealership to see if they would be able to take care of it despite being a good eight years since the recall. I was suprised with great news: Mazda was going to replace the unit for free! This was a massive win, considering the cost of a replacement unit and the immobilizer programming that goes with it. Two weeks later, and the code has not returned.

My next issue was the soft top, which had seen better days and was beginning to leak. Since a soft top does not insulate well, the car is hot in the summer, cold in the winter and noisy all the time. It is nice to randomly put the top down from time to time, but since mine was so old and brittle I have not even been risking it.

So I got a hard top! All problems solved. Since my old soft top was a worthless pile of garbage I figured I would remove it altogether. Some people like to keep it in even if they have the hard top, but I like the idea of keeping the car light. If anyone wants the frame for a soft top, let me know. I took a moment to clean up the weather stripping with some Meguiar’s Vinyl and Rubber Protectant while everything was easy to get at. I will eventually paint the hard top to match the car, and tint the rear glass.  So far the top has been a major improvement.

Every now and then, the rear of the car behaves enthusiastically in the rain. As a result of unexpected wags of the tail, my wheels have taken a few beatings. This means that one wheel in particular refuses to properly balance when getting tires mounted. It also means that the poor wheel bearing it is attached to hates its life. I scored a replacement set of stock 15″ wheels on Craigslist, and decided to make them awesome. My dad suggested that I make them look like the old American Racing wheels, and I was inclined to agree. I will eventually post a full write-up in the Miata.net forum to share my process. They still need a coat of clear, but at this point I think they look pretty great!

The bulbs in my instrument cluster have slowly been going out one by one, and so I finally tackled that issue this weekend. I bought the replacement bulbs from the Rosenthal Mazda site, as well as a new shift boot, parking brake cover, license plate lamps, and caliper rebuild kits for when I tackle the brakes next weekend. There is already quite a bit of information out there regarding removing the instrument cluster and replacing the bulbs; however, there is not a lot of information regarding the HVAC panel lighting, so I was flying blind when I took that puppy out. It was a trick, but I will post a write-up on that soon too. Some say you can get at the lights in that panel from the top by just taking the radio out. These people clearly are magicians with impressive capabilities. I was disappointed to find out the lights in the HVAC panel were not your typical 194 bulbs, so I would unfortunately not be able to take care of them just yet. I moved on to the instrument cluster and was surprised to find out Mazda included bulbs for ABS and overdrive indicators. Since I have neither of these options, it meant I would be able to use them in the HVAC panel! I now have a fully functioning dash (minus the odometer which mysteriously decided to stop working). I also finally got around to properly installing my Pioneer head unit with a trim kit, and replaced the festoon light with a nice LED bulb.

 

I still have a lot of work to do on the car, so I will be posting as I go along. I’ll also be writing a few how-to guides in the forums soon.

2014 Lone Star LeMans

•September 29, 2014 • Leave a Comment

The 2014 Lone Star LeMans at the Circuit of The Americas was an event to remember! The International Motor Sports Association (IMSA) brought three series to compete for the weekend: the Porsche GT3 Cup, the Continental Tire SportsCar Challenge, and the newly-formed Tudor United SportsCar Championship (USCC). The USCC – which ran a 2.75 hour race on Saturday afternoon – was formed by merging the NASCAR Grand-Am Rolex  Sports Car Series and the American LeMans Series.

The main event was the fourth round of the 2014 FIA World Endurance Championship, the 6 Hours of Circuit of The Americas. The race got underway at 5 PM CST and finished under lights and stars. As usual, I took a camera and lots of photos: